We were very lucky to be in Buenos Aires at the time that we were as we got to see a different side of Argentina, a side that is not represented in any guidebooks. During our stay, we saw several large-scale protests erupting around the city over the President’s controversial decision to increase the export duty tax on commodities that local farmers produce. Argentine President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner had imposed the 44% export tax (which would go up to 90% based on the record commodities prices)- which applied to soybeans, wheat, corn and sunflower seeds - on March 11 2008 without consulting Congress.

Since it was the second major agricultural tax hike in just four months, thousands of Argentine farmers were angry over the escalating taxes. To show their displeasure at the ‘windfall’ taxes, they organized roadblocks in the country, and prevented trucks that were piled with agricultural goods for export from passing through. The roads were blocked for more than three months as talks between the government and the farmers resulted in no resolution. We saw at first-hand the diminishing supplies of foodstuffs on supermarket shelves while we were there, and also saw price increases for food such as beef in food courts. For some time, we could not buy milk at all because there wasn’t enough milk in the supermarkets!

The photos below were ones that we took on several occasions. Some were organized by the president, some were organized by the farmers.

 Protesters marching down the city 

 The protesting was so loud that we got awakened from sleep

 Beating their drums and shouting

 Traffic in many parts of Buenos Aires was disrupted

 Even office workers came out to see what’s happening

We think it is great that people have the freedom of expression, whether they have been asked to join in a protest for or against the government; at least they have a say!

 Setting off firecrackers to gather the city’s attention

This photo is of  supporters of Argentina’s President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner and trade unions marching down the city in a planned rally to back the Argentine leader

Finally in mid-July 2008, President CFK was forced to drop the export tax after failing to get enough votes from the congress. By the time the whole saga was over, Argentina had lost a lot of revenue as farmers had halted exports of commodities to the rest of the world during the protest (which resulted in corn and soy prices skyrocketing around the world due to shortage).

Argentina is the world’s second-largest corn exporter and third-largest soybean supplier. Rising prices of these commodities have made Argentina richer in recent years and it was precisely the commodities boom which is widely credited with helping the country rebound from a devastating economic crisis in 2001.

From what we saw and experienced, Argentina is a rich country and also a poor country. It has one of the largest fertile plains in the world, is one of the biggest agricultural exporters, but yet, due to fiscal mismanagement and corruption, the country is quite poor. Its subway system is very old; schools do not have heating (which is needed during winter); there are many homeless people sleeping on the streets, and countless people scrounging for food in dustbins and trash bags all over the city. It is estimated that at least half of Argentina’s population are living in poverty. The gap between the haves and have nots is astonishing.

One thing we love about Buenos Aires is that markets and fairs are commonplace all over the city. Our favorite activity on a weekend in the city of tango was to mingle with the locals in outdoor markets.

 Pedro looking through old South American currency notes at a stall

We learnt a lot by talking to the locals and getting first-hand information about the country, culture and the economy.

 Other porteños browsing through the market’s knick knacks

These outdoor markets are a good way for people to make an honest living. We say that because the poverty level is quite high in the country and the city; we saw homeless people and beggars almost everywhere, from the city centre to the poorer outskirts.

 Older Argentinians having a chat in the park

 Nice building there

 Families with kids hanging out in the park 

 Old vehicles are typical in the city

This is the National Congress Building. One of the city’s most valuable sculptures is a bronze reproduction of “The Thinker” by Auguste Rodin, which can be found inside the plaza which is called the Plaza del Congreso.

 Us and the 102-year-old Congreso

The congress building behind

We love this windmill building so much! We called it the windmill building because it has a windmill at the top. It look so old and so out of place with the ‘newer’ buildings surrounding it, but it’s just so full of character. It reminded us of how elegant the city once was. The building’s name is actually called Confitería Del Molino. Once the informal meeting place of politicians from the nearby Congreso, the cafe closed in 1997, and now it is in major disrepair and abandoned. A big pity.

One thing we miss about Buenos Aires is the good variety of yummy food in the city. When we got tired of the traditional Argentinian food, we would try out food from other regions of South America. Our favorite is the South American-Asian fusion food.

In the neighborhood of Palermo, there’s this fusion restaurant called Osaka which serves fusion Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. Its menu is packed with so many different types of appetizers, tapas, main courses, side dishes that we were spoilt for choice every time we went there. The service was impeccable, and the food was just perfect.

Osaka restaurant 

 Part of the sushi-making kitchen

You cannot come to South America without trying the famous Ceviche, which is a popular dish made up of raw fish marinated in citrus juice. Ceviche, although a popular dish in many South American countries, is not really part of the Argentinian diet. The one we tried in Osaka was the Peruvian ceviche. In the pic, you can see chunks of raw fish marinated in lime/lemon juice, served with toasted corn, sliced onion and deep fried sweet potato. Absolutely D-I-V-I-N-E. This melts in your mouth.

Peru is often noted as the birthplace of ceviche as the various Peruvian civilizations that arose in the Pre-Columbian period greatly depended on fishing.

Another divine dish. Duck with mushrooms in truffle oil gravy, and risotto sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Another Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant we went to several times was Sipan, situated near the intersection between Calle Florida and Calle Paraguay. Sipan’s sitting area is very small and the menu is small and limited compared to Osaka. They serve more non-fish seafood than fish here and there isn’t much Peruvian food you can try here.

This deep-fried salmon sushi had sour cream and avocado inside and crumbs on the surface. When paired with the accompanying sweet sauce, it would take you on a journey to gastronomical heaven. Irresistible!

Sushi that came with generous portions of raw salmon inside and on the top and had green veggies rolled neatly inside. Taste was intensified with the sesame dip.

Sizzling hotplate of beef, fried potatoes, onions, capsicums, calamari, drizzled with sweet teriyaki sauce.

When it comes to mouth-watering food, the honors don’t just go to fancy restaurants. We aren’t gastro-snobs, we go to where good food can be found. One of our top favorites for everyday food is  Chan Chan, a small cosy family-run restaurant along Hipolito Yrigoyen. Here is where the quality of food in relation to the price is unbeatable. Chan Chan serves Peruvian food that is home-cooked, unhyped and delicious. There is such a wide variety of dishes there. The owners and the Peruvian woman serving our food were very friendly and made us feel at home.

This small bowl of toasted giant corn with dip sauces is always brought to your table when you eat there.

Chan Chan’s style of Peruvian ceviche. Chunks of fish are served with cold potato, sweet potato, sliced onion and marinated corn.

 Chicharron de pescado (deep fried pieces of fish). Particularly nice when you eat them with the sliced onion.

Yummy Peruvian fried rice called Chaufa. It tastes very similar to Chinese fried rice and even the name Chaufa is similar to Mandarin’s chow fan.

Home-cooked lamb stew that is so tender that it melts in your mouth

 Estafado de pollo. It’s chicken cooked in curry-like gravy, but it’s not curry. Very nice and appetizing.

Pizzerias can be found all over the city, and one popular chain is Ugi’s. This is a pizza place that we just have to mention because it sells just ONE type of pizza here: Mozzarella with tomato sauce. Nothing else. Even though they only sell this one pizza, they are very successful, with 15-20 outlets in Buenos Aires.

Ugi’s has been around for 30 years and its owner owns a farm in Cordoba where he makes the mozarella cheese from his cows. It was initially set up as a way of selling his cheese without going through a distributor or third party. A whole pizza (which is large) costs just US$3.30. We suppose that’s the cheapest pizza you can find and it can easily feed two very hungry people. The place is very bare and there’s only a few stools inside for patrons eating in. It hasn’t moved on with the times, but seeing how popular Ugi’s is, that may be one of the few businesses that didn’t find any need to innovate but yet could produce profits for its owner. Thumbs up for you, Ugi’s!

Just down our apartment along Calle Florida was the shopping arcade Galerías Pacífico, the most high-end shopping mall in Argentina. Galerías Pacífico isn’t just any shopping mall, it has had a long history, and - it’s beautiful inside. Built in the late 1800s, it was one of the tallest and broadest buildings of its era. In 1945, a large central cupola was constructed and decorated with 12 frescos by artists Lino Enea Spilimbergo, Antonio Berni, Juan Carlos Castagnino, Manuel Colmeiro and Demetrio Urruchúa. These frescos, finished in 1946, are some of the most important in Buenos Aires. In 1989 it was declared a national historic monument.

Once inside, we were amazed by the crown jewel of the building. Looking up, you could see the well-executed paintings on the ceiling of the cupola. Immediately, it reminded us of the Sistine chapel in the Vatican. The Renaissance-styled paintings evoked the sense of an elegant and artistic era, making us feel like we were in a museum or a grand cathedral. Why don’t people make more modern-day buildings look like that? Even if you aren’t interested in shopping, you should visit it. This place is mostly crowded with office workers, well-to-do locals and tourists.

 The wonderful frescoes in Galerías Pacífico

Here is the basement where there is a food court

The shopping arcade houses many luxury brands such as Tiffany, and many Argentine designer brands. It is such an incredibly handsome building. The top floor is now used as an exhibition space for art.

The glass-paneled ceiling lets in natural sunlight and looks geometrically amazing. It’s one of the most beautiful buildings we have ever seen. Although this building was inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II, we think that they look quite different, each with its own uniqueness.

During our two-month stay in Buenos Aires, capital of Argentina, we had our meals several times a week at Galerías Pacífico. On the basement level, it has a high-quality food court, but to our surprise, the prices in this food court are quite steep compared to local pubs and restaurants, and compared to other countries in South America.

They sure eat well and healthy in Argentina, unlike in other parts of the world, especially the US; there is almost no deep fried food here, except for fries. Most food is grilled, stir-fried or baked. Since Argentina is well-known for its beef, you can get a good steak here for a reasonable price.  The beef is ok, not fantastic as hyped, and from what we’ve heard from the locals, the quality of the red meat has decreased over the last few years. We actually preferred the beef in the Chilean Patagonia.

All the food in this food court comes in a set, with a soft drink. The most expensive food in this food court is the Japanese restaurant which was almost always empty, followed by dull-looking Chinese food.

During the two months we were there, they raised the price of food in this food court once due to rising commodity prices and food shortage in the country - the result of farmers protesting against the government’s now-axed export duty hike.

 We liked the steak in this place. The steak (plus side and drink) was around US$8, a good deal.

We ordered from this stall so many times that the cashier even remembered our orders that came with special instructions.

Argentinians has a national passion: football. Remember Maradona? Whenever a match is on, you can see locals with their eyes transfixed on the TVs in restaurants, pubs and even the foodcourt, as shown in the pic above of the one in Galerías Pacífico. Many people’s favorite team is the Boca Juniors.

Argentinians cheering as the popular football team scored a goal